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Beaches of Inhabame, South MozambiqueMozambique's Tropical Coast is a Haven from Tourism in Africa
This town by the Indian Ocean is a laid-back gem of sandy beaches and rich marine life - a great holiday destination despite the nation's turbulent political history.
Country with a Troubled HistoryMozambique was colonised by the Portuguese in 1505 and did not achieve independence until 1975 when Samora Machel led the population to victory in a left wing coup, establishing a Republic.Despite this apparent victory, the new government - with Machel as President - was plagued by armed rebel movements. Violent civil war characterised the beginning of independence with the government struggling to exercise control beyond central urban areas. An estimated million Mozambicans died before the conflict came to an end in 1992. Today, the south-eastern country, despite recent problems with inflation, is on the road to economic and political recovery. Many rural areas are sparsely populated and retain their stunning natural beauty, despite two decades of civil war. Coastline of InhabameHowever, whilst the capital Maputo may look like any other African city in the process of regenerating, tropical paradise lies not far to the north on the shores of the Indian Ocean. Mozambique has 2700 km of coastline in total and the warm, nutrient-rich waters carried there by the powerful Argyles current make the marine ecosystems some of the richest in the world. The region of Inhabame is home to miles of uninterrupted white sand. Best of all, visitors can enjoy it without feeling the pressures of tourism that are sadly found at other more popular stretches of the African coast. Travellers are so few and far between that the local residents are both interested and happy to speak about their culture with those taking a trip. They seem refreshingly unconscious of the European/African divide than regions such as The Gambia – and less keen to extort money from ‘rich’ outsiders at every opportunity. Travelling from Maputo to InhabameWhen examining the route from Maputo to Inhabame, the reason why it has stayed such a delightful secret for so long suddenly becomes clear. The public coach is not for the faint-hearted. The journey takes about 9 hours on a good day – in the past there have been accidents (hitting a cow seems a surprisingly frequent occurrence) delaying the coach for much longer. And this is via a vehicle that would not be anywhere near road-worthy in Europe. Nonetheless, the destination definitely necessitates the experience. It is also a great way to get an insight into Mozambique’s culture beyond a city populated with mobile phones and Levi jeans. Along the way, rural settlements can be glimpsed and local women still walk miles with large containers balanced - improbably on their heads - to fetch water. Tropical SandsReaching Inhabame town bus-stop, a short ride in a Chapa (mini-bus style taxi) will provide – far less hairy - transport nearby resort of Tofo. The only hint that humans have been here before is a small building dubiously labelled ‘Internet Café’ and a friendly backpackers. Besides this, Tofo consists of a small market and stretches of sand with the horizon only interrupted by palm trees or a curve in the dunes. Sunset is transformed from a daily (and often unnoticed) event into a spectacle as the light merges with the coast and open landscape to produce a rainbow spread of colours. As there is no light pollution here, the darkness is just as fascinating and lit by more stars than city-dwellers would be able to imagine. The accommodation at Tofo is called Fatima’s Nest and is run by a collection of locals and travellers who love the place so much they can’t tear themselves away. The standard is basic - huts, dorms or a campsite – but comfortable and very good value. The location and view is also unbeatable – the huts and bar sit on among the dunes themselves, a mere stone’s throw from the edge of the sea. It’s so relaxed, quiet and beautiful that it becomes the beach resort of tropical fantasies. There is no need, however, to simply relax on the beach as there are plenty of activities on offer. Locals offer boat trips where lucky visitors can spot hump-back whales and there are a range of diving and snorkelling businesses. The coast is populated not only with some fabulous corrals but also with whale sharks and dolphins. Swimming among these fabulous creatures offers a final layer to paradise.
The copyright of the article Beaches of Inhabame, South Mozambique in Mozambique Travel is owned by Alice Woolliams. Permission to republish Beaches of Inhabame, South Mozambique in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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